What You'll Need (Tools and Parts)
Adjusting a parking brake requires a careful approach to ensure both safety and functionality. Here's exactly what you'll need to get the job done right:
Tools
- 14mm Socket and Ratchet: Most parking brake adjustments, especially on drums, will use this size. Keep a 15mm on standby for other applications.
- Flathead Screwdriver: For accessing drums or caliper adjusters through inspection holes.
- Torque Wrench: Essential for ensuring bolts are tightened to spec. Look for one with a range that covers 20-80 ft-lbs.
- Jack and Jack Stands: Always use proper stands. Lifting devices are non-negotiable here.
- Brake Spoon Tool: Specialty tool for drum brake adjustments. Costs around $10-15, but you can often rent one from an auto parts store.
- Flashlight: Helps a lot when working under the car or in low-light areas.
Parts
- Parking Brake Cable Adjuster: A typical replacement costs $10-30, depending on the make.
- Anti-Seize Lubricant: Small tube costs about $5. Handy for reassembly if components are prone to rust.
- Thread Locker: Medium-strength blue compound for securing bolts.
Difficulty Level & Time Estimate
Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Time Estimate:
- First-timer: 1.5 to 2 hours
- Experienced DIYer: 45 minutes to 1 hour
This isn't an overly complex procedure, but if you don't have a solid grasp of your vehicle's brake system, or if you run into significant rust, you might want to send it to the shop. Especially on vehicles with electronic parking brakes, where a scan tool can be necessary, it could be worth leaving it to the pros.
Safety First
Parking brake adjustments can seem benign, but they involve critical safety systems. Here's how to stay safe:
- Wear Safety Glasses: Small components can spring loose, especially under tension. Eye protection is essential.
- Use Jack Stands on Solid Ground: Never rely on a jack alone. Always ensure the vehicle is stable on the stands.
- Chock Wheels: Since you'll be disengaging the parking brake, chocking the wheels prevents movement.
Step-by-Step Instructions
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Raise and Support the Vehicle
- Use the jack to lift the rear of the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Ensure it's on a flat, stable surface.
- Pro Tip: If you're working on an incline, face the uphill side, and double-up on wheel chocks for extra safety.
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Locate and Inspect the Adjustment Mechanism
- On most Hondas and Toyotas, you'll find a cable adjustment nut near the brake lever or under the console. For drum brakes, look for an adjustment wheel behind the drum inspection hole.
- Inspect for any damage or rust. Replace damaged adjusters before proceeding.
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Adjust the Cable or Screws
- For cable systems, tighten the adjustment nut using the 14mm socket until there's minimal slack.
- For drum brakes, use the brake spoon tool to turn the star wheel inside the inspection hole. A few turns should suffice.
- Pro Tip: Turn the wheel just enough to feel slight tension on the cable or drum, but avoid overtightening, which can cause brakes to drag.
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Recheck the Feel and Tension
- Test the parking brake lever or pedal feel. It should engage within six to eight clicks (or pumps) without much slack.
- Torque Specification: If applicable, any bolted components should be tightened to 25-30 ft-lbs.
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Reassemble and Lower the Vehicle
- Once satisfied with the adjustment, replace any panels or dust covers. Apply anti-seize to bolts if needed.
- Slowly lower the vehicle and remove jack stands.
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Test Drive
- Engage and disengage the parking brake multiple times in a safe, controlled environment. Listen for dragging or rubbing sounds.
How to Know It's Done Right
Once you've made adjustments, engage the parking brake on a slight incline. Release the main brakes — the vehicle should hold steady with no forward or backward roll. During a short drive, ensure no unusual noises or pulling occur.
No break-in is needed, but recheck tension after 500 miles or sooner if you notice looseness.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Over-tightening the Cable: Leads to pre-mature brake wear and possible brake drag. Adjust in small increments.
- Neglecting Inspection: Always check for rust or frayed cables before adjusting. Overlooking this can render your work pointless.
- Missing Components: Ensure all components are in place after adjustments, especially clips or covers.
When to Replace vs Repair
Replace:
- If the cable is frayed or broken, replacement is necessary. A typical aftermarket cable costs around $20-40.
- Opt for replacement if mechanical adjusters are frozen or corroded beyond repair.
Repair:
- Adjustments suffice for loose cables without any visible damage.
- If you find issues with only minor surface rust, a cleaning and adjustment should do the trick.
Cost Comparison: A shop charges between $75 to $150 for adjustments. DIY can be under $50, including necessary parts and tool rentals.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can adjusting a parking brake improve overall braking performance?
A: While it doesn't directly affect regular brakes, a well-adjusted parking brake can prevent wear by ensuring the system isn't dragging or binding.
Q: How often should a parking brake be adjusted?
A: Typically every 12,000 miles or at every brake service. Adjust sooner if you notice excessive lever travel or reduced holding ability.
Q: Is the adjustment procedure the same for all vehicles?
A: No, vehicles with electric parking brakes differ and usually require a scan tool for adjustment. Traditional systems as described fit vehicles like the Toyota Camry or Honda Civic.
Q: What symptoms indicate a parking brake adjustment is needed?
A: Symptoms include needing more clicks to engage, a brake that doesn't hold on a slope, or an "uneven" feel during operation.
Q: Can I adjust the parking brake if it's squeaking?
A: Squeaking often indicates a need for brake maintenance or replacement, not just an adjustment. Inspect shoes or pads for wear.
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