Suspension & Steering5 min readOwnerKeep Editorial

How to Replace Tie Rod Ends

Learn how to replace tie rod ends with our step-by-step guide. Enhance your car's steering performance today—discover expert tips and DIY techniques now!

Replacing tie rod ends is one of those tasks that sits at the crossroads between straightforward and essential for your vehicle’s steering precision. If your car is wandering or your steering wheel feels loose, worn tie rod ends might be to blame. Addressing them can restore handling and safety.

What You'll Need (Tools and Parts)

Tools

  • Jack and Jack Stands: Ensure you pick a reliable set.
  • 19mm Socket: Often needed for the tie rod end nut.
  • Tie Rod Puller Tool: Specialty tool to separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Can often be rented from an auto parts store.
  • 3/8-inch Torque Wrench: Key for achieving proper torque specifications.
  • Adjustable Wrench or Pliers: For adjusting the inner tie rod locknut.
  • Penetrating Fluid (e.g., PB Blaster): To ease removal of rusted components.

Parts

  • Tie Rod Ends: Cost around $30-$80 each. Make sure to choose a reputable brand like Moog or TRW.
  • Lock Nuts: Often these are included with your replacement tie rod ends.

Additional Supplies

  • White Grease or Anti-Seize (Part#: 33002): To ease future removal.
  • Wheel Alignment Check: Budget about $80-$100 post-replacement to ensure proper alignment.

Difficulty Level & Time Estimate

  • Skill Level: Intermediate. While not the most challenging task, it requires attention to detail and some mechanical experience.
  • Time Estimate: Set aside 1-2 hours if you’re new to this with thorough preparation; experienced DIYers might wrap it up in under an hour.
  • Professional Help: If rust or corrosion is severe, or if you lack the necessary tools, a shop visit is recommended.

Safety First

  • Vehicle Stability: Always support the vehicle with jack stands on a level surface. Never trust a jack alone.
  • PPE Required: Safety glasses, gloves, and steel-toe boots are a must.

Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Preparations

  • Park on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
  • Loosen wheel lug nuts while the car is still grounded.

2. Lifting the Vehicle

  • Raise and Support: Lift the vehicle and secure it on jack stands.

3. Removing the Wheel

  • Remove lug nuts completely and slide the wheel off.

4. Loosening the Tie Rod Lock Nut

  • With pliers or an adjustable wrench, loosen the tie rod lock nut to mark the tie rod alignment.

5. Detaching the Tie Rod End

  • Remove the tie rod end nut with the 19mm socket.
  • Use the tie rod puller tool to dislodge the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.
  • Pro Tip: Spraying penetrating fluid a day prior can make this step far easier.

6. Removing the Tie Rod End

  • Twist the old tie rod end off the rack, counting the turns to maintain alignment.

7. Installing the New Tie Rod End

  • Thread the new tie rod end onto the rack the same number of turns as the old one was removed.
  • Secure it with the new locking nut if provided.

8. Reattaching the Tie Rod End

  • Insert the tie rod end into the steering knuckle and secure it with its nut. Use a torque wrench to tighten. Refer to your vehicle’s service manual for specific torque specifications—typical is about 35-45 ft-lbs.
  • Pro Tip: Apply anti-seize to the threads to facilitate future removal.

9. Return the Wheel

  • Reinstall the wheel and torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer's specification (usually around 80-100 ft-lbs).

10. Alignment Check

  • Finally, drive to a local alignment shop to ensure your wheels are perfectly aligned.

How to Know It's Done Right

  • Visual Inspection: Ensure that everything is tight and securely in place.
  • Test Drive: The steering should feel secure and responsive, without vibrations or tendency to wander.
  • Post-Installation Alignment: A professionally confirmed alignment solidifies a job well done.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Skipping Alignment: Misleading the steering can cause tire wear and unsafe handling.
  • Under-Torqueing/Over-Torqueing: Not abiding by the torque specs can lead to premature wear or loose parts.
  • Ignoring Component Condition: If the boots are cracked, inspect inner tie rods and consider replacement.

When to Replace vs Repair

  • When to Replace: Always replace when experiencing loose handling, uneven tire wear, or noticeable play in the steering wheel.
  • Cost Factors: DIY replacement with parts could run you about $50-$150, versus $200-$300 at a shop.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How often should tie rod ends be replaced?

A: They typically last 100,000 miles but should be inspected at each alignment service.

Q: Can I replace just one tie rod end?

A: Yes, but it’s often recommended to replace both sides to ensure even wear and handling.

Q: What are signs that my tie rod ends are failing?

A: Look for uneven tire wear, a loose steering feel, squeaking, or knocking sounds when turning.

Q: Do tie rod ends need any special lubrication?

A: Most modern tie rod ends are sealed, but if yours has a grease fitting, regular lubrication is wise.

Q: Can I drive with a bad tie rod end?

A: It’s risky as it can lead to altered alignment and a loss of steering control.

For those who value their time and their ride, remember that OwnerKeep.com offers comprehensive vehicle-specific maintenance guides to help you at every turn.

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